around here: trainspotting

May 30, 2011

Traveller waiting for the train

From what I've noticed, Czechs do a lot of waiting. They wait for the tram, train, lunch, coffee, beer, and their dogs to publicly poop. They take their time waiting and then, wait some more. There's no sense of urgency or requirement here, and that's instilled in everything Czechs do. It's a type of appreciation for life that I really respect, and honestly, want for myself.

I think this contrasts a lot with American culture where there's always hustle and bustle and you only have 10 minutes to be wherever you're going that's 20 minutes away. I captured this photo because it actually reminded me of Austin (with the dreads), even though that seems to also be very popular in Prague. Czechs probably also enjoy the act of waiting for the hair to dread, it seems appropriate. I highly doubt they take the fast way and use a soap bar to knot up their hair -- it seems very uncharacteristic. 

I did some research on how to dread my hair not too long back, and actually you don't have to cut all your hair off when you're done...crazy, I know, but that's a myth! So if you're in the market, a soap bar will speed up the process, and wash out -- best of both worlds. 

Sidenote (but it fits perfectly): A bar owner that I met told me this story of one of his employees. The employee called him, he missed the call, and called the guy back. No answer. Called again. No answer. Five hours later, the owner goes to the bar to see the man waiting for him. The man was a delivery truck driver, and his truck broke down. He had called the owner once, and that was all the effort he was expelling to resolve the situation, so he waited. He waited for FIVE HOURS. The man was on salary, so once his work was done, he could have gone home, but instead he sat there and waited for the owner rather than calling him back. I thought that fit this blog on waiting to a tee, so I included it!

wish you were here: hanging with the cool kids

May 29, 2011

Meet Factory artist, Joshua Ammon, outside the factory

Near the end of the Tram 12 route, in practically the middle of nowhere Prague, there lives an old meat factory converted into an international centre of contemporary art, the meet factory. Housing visual artists, film, music and theatre, the space fosters creativity and artistic growth. The smell of oil paint and grime overwhelms your senses as you walk through the halls. 

The meet factory, wedged between eight railroad tracks and the interstate, has a formal entrance, and the one everyone uses. Get off the 12 tram, gracefully climb through the electrical tower and hop over the railroad tracks and you're there. It's unclear how illegal that is, but just like smoking pot in Prague, no one really seems to mind.

Founded by legendary, yet controversial artist David Cerny, the meet factory welcomes artists from around the world to come and call a studio space their own. Cerny's intentions were to bring progressive international art into Czech culture, which I think he's beginning to accomplish quite nicely. By allowing some of the most innovative thinkers and doers to live and work in the space, Cerny's laying a solid foundation for a growing Czech art scene. 

Generally speaking, and in my opinion, traditional artists don't call the meet factory home. It's only the most provocative and controversial, or just plain weird and interesting, that make the cut. The artists have to submit proposals for projects and are granted space accordingly. Some artists are even sought out and personally invited to spend time there.

This photo is of Joshua, my semi-subject for the photo documentary I've been working on. Joshua has lived in Prague for a couple years now, but only moved into the factory less than a year ago. He has a studio so he can work on large format paintings. 

I thought this photo depicted him perfectly.

weekend miser: king of the castle

May 28, 2011

View of Karstejn castle from the village street

Forty short minutes away from Prague lies Karlstejn - home to King Charles' castle. There's not much else in Karlstejn, but the views alone are worth the 60 CZK it cost to get there.  It's a 2-mile walk uphill to the castle with gift shops and zmrzina all along the way. I'm not sure what exactly you are supposed to do if you live in Karlstejn and need to buy something other than a Czech sweatshirt, but I guess the Karlstejnians have figured it out. The town is very quaint and if you could imagine what a traditional Czech town might look like, this hits the nail on the head. Windy roads, small cars, gardens, fences, clothes lines and gnomes in windows are all included in the uphill climb. If you get lucky, like we did, you even get to hear the small Czech children donning traditional garb singing in the streets. I'm not sure what they were singing about, but holding hands, pigtails and spinning around in a circle were all part of the gig -- also worth the 3 bucks, if you ask me. 

When you finally reach the top of the hill, you feel like you've run a marathon. Luckily, there's a spot to stop and get beer about half way up the most brutal part of the climb. After you reach the top, you can pay various amounts of money to see various parts of the castle. They have some English tours and student discounts make it pretty affordable. Be wary of the English tours because the tour guides have semi-programmed the tour into their vocabulary, so their English isn't that good if you actually have a question. If you're not really into history, going into the castle won't do much for you. A majority of the inside was redone during Restoration in the 19th century. All the 'art' on the walls is pieces of the actual 14th century castle, so that's pretty neat. You also get to see replicas of some crowns - they pretty much look like replicas, though slightly more glamorous than a crown you might have worn in a 2nd grade school play. 

For me, the main draw was the awe-inspiring view you get when the tour is over. The basic tour spits you out in the castle's courtyard. The courtyard is worth exploring. If you go up and stand on something you can see the whole land, and you pretty much feel like King Charles, minus the crown. You guessed it, also worth the CZK you pay. 

When exiting the castle, there's a little nature trail that takes you around the other side of the mountain. It's scenic, you get to walk next to a stream, and I'm pretty sure it's shorter. If motivated, which you will be, have a Hansel and Gretel moment and skip down the trail and frolic in the stream. You wind back through town and then back to the train station. It's a pretty hefty walk there and back so make sure you've worn comfortable shoes. 

I snapped this particular photo mainly because I love mannequins. I have a technicolored mannequin named Janice at home -- and she's awesome. She would be proud I took this photo. It seemed appropriate because the juxtaposition was so rare - a mannequin and a 14th century castle. It's not everyday you see such a sight. Not to mention that being in a city that's so painfully touristy, every other second someone is snapping a picture of someone else in front of an iconic landmark. I felt the mannequins should also have photos to show mom and dad too- maybe even send a postcard. After having been here a week, I can safely say I'm surprised by nothing the Czechs do, so this should be expected. 

small wonder: locks of love

May 27, 2011

Padlocks locked to the bridge railing, Mala Strana District, Prague

Padlocks of Love have been taking the world by storm. Star-crossed lovers, or just passionate sweethearts, have been locking their love up and throwing away the key on bridges, railings and any commonplace available. The padlocks symbolize their everlasting love, or whatever passionate love they feel at the time. 

In Prague, these locks can be found affixed to a pedestrian bridge in the Mala Strana district. Wikipedia says it was started by the now infamous Glen Emery of Jo's bar fame, but we all know how reliable Wikipedia can be. The locks of love on the bridge are on public display so that any passing man, woman and child knows how in love you are. Czechs are big on public displays of affection, so this seems rather appropriate. You never know when you're going to bump into a couple making out on the tram, and when you do, they probably have a lock on the bridge. 

Many of the locks, such as the one above, are engraved with the names of the sweethearts who placed the lock. The bridge, though small, is adorned with hundreds, maybe thousands, of padlocks. All colors, shapes and sizes represent the love that two people felt at one time when they locked their love to the bridge. Undoubtedly, it is good karma for the future of the relationship, probably similar to feeding the wedding cake versus smashing it in your loved one's face -- my parents always told me those generally end in divorce. After all, if on one of the most important days of your wife's life you ruin her makeup with a frosting rose to the eye, she's probably going to hold that against you...forever. Not to discount that women also smash, it was just easier to blame the guy. 

Regardless of American customs, Nika and Michael are probably still madly in love. Maybe if they ever break up, Nika will come to the bridge in a fit of rage and hack the lock off with a chainsaw, cast it into the water below, and watch it sink to depths, never to be seen again. (I let the girl win that one too, sorry I'm biased...it will probably be Michael's fault anyway)

This small wonder captured my eye because honestly, I'm a hopeless romantic. I wish the best for Nika and Michael and I hope that one day I, too, will have a love passionate enough to lock it to a bridge in Prague and throw away the key. Word on the street - aka wikipedia - is that locks are showing up in the U.S. too, all over the Brooklyn Bridge. I liked that Nika and Michael took the time to have the lock engraved, such a simple gesture, yet so meaningful. It's the little things that get me every time. 

wish you were here: dancing with gypsies

May 26, 2011

Romani Gypsy Parade in Old Town Square, Prague

Trekking from Wincelas Square to Old Town Square with the gypsies today proved to be a remarkable feat.  Previously, my view of gypsies stemmed from my grandmother’s warning that their fake babydolls would guilt me into giving them money and then they’d pick my pockets in return for my kindness.  Needless to say, it was kind of skewed.

Unlike the fake-babydoll-carrying-swaddling-clothes gypsies of Italy, the Romani gypsy parade was a fantastical celebration of gypsy culture in Prague. Decked to the nines in makeup, bells, bangles and flowy clothing of all sorts, the gypsies twirled and whirled their way through town. Supported by family, friends, photographers and fanny-packed bystanders, gypsies young and old strutted their stuff down the cobblestone streets. Representing all ethnicities, from Indian to Hispanic, the gypsies marched in support of their homelands.

Never before have I feared being trampled, but kneeling down trying to capture a photo of gypsy feet can really change a person's mind on those types of things. Elbowing and wedging my way to the front of the crowds, I felt similarly to that 'N Sync concert I went to in middle school. It's interesting how some points in your life connect to vastly different experiences you've had. 

Because the parade was moving so swiftly, it was almost as if the crowd was doing a tango with the each gypsy tribe, circling and dispersing, constantly in flux. Winding around corners, down the narrow streets, the parade hustled and bustled with colorful life.  For some of the younger girls, it seemed as though this were their big ballet recital, posing and twirling all lipsticked and smiley. 

I was thoroughly impressed by the dedication of each tribe to their performance. I took this picture because I wanted to capture both the landmark of Prague and the contrast of the colorful gypsy. In addition, I wanted to illustrate the movement and chaos that ensued during the parade. I think this photo depicts the parade to a tee. 

facts of life: smoking is everywhere

Girl smoking in Cross Club, Prague

From bars to trams, cars to prams, smoking is everywhere. This habit is very popular in European countries, and perceived much differently to that of smoking in the U.S. We grow up being taught that smoking is bad, causes lung cancer, kills, etc. Europeans just grow up smoking. It's almost as if they are still being affected by the "Joe Cool" Camel advertising from the late 80's. I suppose people say that they move slower here, so that might be an accurate statement. 

In the book The Tipping Point, Malcom Gladwell discusses the allure of smoking and how it draws people in with the 'cool factor'. You do not pick up smoking because you really, truly want to smoke. You pick up smoking because the hot au pair your parents hired one summer used to delicately draw in nicotine fumes when she laid out out by the pool. Her fingers would bring the cig to her mouth, and she would gracefully inhale then exhale the smoke; never, not once, implying smoking was in any way uncool. 

I don't necessarily think Europeans are affected by the 'cool' factor of smoking, its a part of their culture. There is no "Indoor Air Act" or non-smoking section, and surprisingly, no one seems to care. The advertising regulations for countries other than the U.S. allow them to put things such as "SMOKING KILLS" or a cancerous lung all over the box of cigarettes, and that is as good as a "Truth" campaign to them. 

No worries, I'm not planning on taking up smoking anytime soon, but I'll admit that a lot of Czechs look damn cool running through the streets with their cigarettes in hand. Initially, what drew me to capture this photo was her hand. Hands, my favorite thing to photograph, tell so much about a person: where they've been, how they've aged, how hard they work. If you get close enough, you even know if they bite their nails or better yet their skin. In my opinion, hands go unnoticed in today's society and should really get a lot more credit, considering without them your abilities are quite limited. Hands are responsible for the great writing, painting and sculpting we know and love. They are the consoling pat your father places on your back and the tender touch from your grandmother that grazes your face in affection. Alas, I digress, this blog post is about smoking in Czech culture not the beauty of hands.

Bottom line, I'm pretty sure views on smoking, and often habits of smoking, stem from your upbringings. Czech upbringings promote it and therefore its everywhere from bars to trams, cars to prams -- though I'm not implying babies smoke around here. 

noticed: headstone saying hello

Headstone peeking through the bushes, Olsany Cemetery, Prague

As I mentioned below, much of the cemetery is overgrown. Regardless of the direction you were looking, you could see nothing but headstones and mausoleums. Although it may be weird, I enjoyed being in the presence of such death because in a sense, I was also in the presence of such life. I felt blessed by the lives that lay beneath me and knew they were all wishing me well as I tip-toed on their headstones in polite curiosity.

I took this photo above as I was walking to meet back with the group. I saw Anna Rodina Beranova peeking through the bushes and knew that she probably wanted to wish me well on my travels. It is clear by her fresh flowers, that people she knew and loved still know and love her. I wanted to let her stay forever in my digital image library as another way for her life to live on.

In looking at this photo, the leaves almost spread in the shape of a heart, another visual aspect that drew me to take it. I think this photo accurately depicts the life this cemetery holds.

Hopefully, I'll be able to go back to Olsany before I leave Prague. I really enjoyed the experience and would like to get a chance to walk all over the ground.

wish you were here: exploring Olsany cemetery

May 25, 2011

Elderly man walking through main road of the historic Olsany cemetery

Visiting the Olsany cemetery was unlike anything I'd ever experienced before -- hundreds of thousands of graves spread out for acres and acres of land. Spending an hour and a half there allowed me to photograph one row on one block of the cemetery. The graves ranged from old to new, preserved to dilapidated, and in some cases even empty. I described this experience to someone as being comparable to "the secret garden", the movie I watched as a child until my VCR destroyed it. The plant life and insects have overtaken the cemetery and made it their home. Black cats, as creepy as though that is, roam freely throughout the acres of Prague's past. I find it ironic that life has overtaken the death that lies below each headstone. In many cases, new life had sprung from the ground directly above the old life. 

It's interesting that nature handles death in an altruistic way, while people often look only at the negative. In addition, as each person grasps death differently, so each death grasps life differently, and each grave reflected that. Each headstone personified the body that lay beneath it, and in some cases how majestic that life was. 

I've never enjoyed being in a cemetery, for the most part because the only ones I've ever been in were for funerals of people I knew and loved. My perspective changed so much when I could appreciate centuries of life and death in one place. I watched as a pregnant woman and a mother pushing a stroller walked peacefully through the grounds, as though it were an everyday stroll in the park. I had never considered spending time gathering peace in such a place, but I understand. The quiet, the eternal resting, the perpetual stillness are all soothing in a way that nowhere else can capture. I saw this cemetery as a place of rejuvenation and reflection, rather than despair.

As I was getting ready to leave Olsany, I took the above photo because I thought it gave a good sense of the majestic qualities the cemetery held. In addition, it contrasted life, though a feeble one, with death. It made me wonder why this man had come here: did he come to visit his wife? his mother? his children? Or just to be at peace? 

After the fact, I realized that I had taken another photo of this man waiting patiently for the metro with our class. In looking at my photos, I know that I was attracted to him because I wanted to know his story. I'm a very imaginative person and often times spend hours watching people and putting together their stories in my head. Whether real or not, it gives such life and personality to people I haven't even met. 

the nocturnalist: night-time walk from the castle

May 24, 2011

Class walking downhill from the Castle on a warm summer evening in Prague

Generally, this is the view I have of my class: walking ahead of me while I'm making the world my jungle gym, climbing all over the place to capture an interesting photo. Captivated by the lighting, I took this to illustrate what a warm and welcoming glow the city has at night. In addition, I wanted to depict the lengthiness of the buildings soaring above, so high that you are almost closed in. In many cases, the city can swallow you whole. 

The class ate dinner at a brewery on top of "the hill" post-orientation on Monday. After dinner, we walked down the hill, our eyes bedazzled with new glimpses of the Prague cityscape at every corner. It was a pretty long trek, but on this beautiful evening, I deemed it perfectly acceptable. Traipsing down cobblestone roads at steep inclines proved to be more difficult than I thought. Similar to a Seussical wonderland, the cobblestones wound around every bend until they reached the illustrious castle. With each step, I felt the presence of the many people that had walked those streets before me. I honed in on the great and tried tirelessly to dull down the fanny-packed. 

Every square inch of Prague, or centimeter as seems appropriate, is jam-packed with unimaginable history. From kings and queens to communism and Nazis, the city streets of Prague hold more history in their pinkies than the U.S. holds in the whole country. The city pulses with culture of past and present, and yearns to continue to be cultivated. Although a very old city, Prague feels much younger than other European cities, and much younger than I expected. It is fairly fast-paced and a hub of cultural influence.

Even in just a few days, Prague has shifted my paradigm of expectancy for "eastern" Europe. I am thoroughly impressed with the city, and can't wait to see what each and every aged cobblestone has in store for me.