facts of life: houses are private, not for parties.

June 19, 2011

dinner party

Czechs aren't much for house parties. You'd be hard-pressed to find a lonely Czech inviting you over for a movie and wine. Your best bet would be beerfest 2011 and an expat's house. It's interesting, coming from a culture where it's no big deal to offer an invite to your house at any given moment.

Czechs don't really seem down for that. I'm sure if it's on an intimate level, they'd hop to it, but not for a social gathering. I took this picture at a dinner party my friend Joshua threw. Even he commented that only Americans invite people to their home. Nevertheless, I was grateful. Who doesn't love a couple glasses of wine and good conversations among friends new and old. It made for a good ending to a really good experience working with Joshua for my project.

around here: dogs and kids are the norm

June 18, 2011

A walk in the park

Now that I've lived here for a month, I've become completely accustomed to seeing kids and dogs roam the city freely. This particular picture, both actually seem to be guided and controlled to an extent, but normally that's not the case.

Kids as young as seven or so, roam the city via tram and metro. Dogs, though generally not far from their owners, pee and sniff at their own discretion. Both seem to be rather friendly and tame. Unlike American children and dogs, they don't come running after you or tackle you to the ground licking your face. It's really a safety issue because tackled people in tram tracks, don't make for happy tram drivers...and we don't want them to get pissy and strike again. Or not do anything, which seems to be the norm.

Nevertheless, I took this picture because I thought it was cute. There are so many parks here, both large and small, that it makes for a really good place to raise a family, I think. Not to mention, who wouldn't want their dogs and children to come have a beer with them every now and then.

around here: summer showers.

June 17, 2011

Rainy day in Prague

Generally speaking, April shower bring May flowers, but that's not really the case for Prague. In April it's still in the forties, and with any luck, it will probably snow. The weather stays wintery from about November to March, but overall the city has a pretty cool climate. 

Sitting about ten latitude lines closer to the North pole than New York City, the city is known for its extreme weather patterns. The winters can be brutally cold, and the summers can be just as brutally hot, and you know Europeans, there's definitely no fans, let alone some air conditioning. That appears to be an excessive luxury, only required by Americans...not sure why, because it's pretty grand. Anyways, the heating systems in Prague are pretty intensive with double windows, not double-paned like in the U.S, but actually two sets of windows about 8 inches apart. The Czechs really have the insulation thing figured out, I think, because they seem to be pretty well stocked in the heating department. They probably consider A/C pointless in necessity when compared to a heater, and if you've lived through a winter here, you'd probably know why.

Just as much as it snows in the winter, it rains in the summer. With rainfall highest from May to August, July sees the peak of rainfall reaching on average 18 mm per day. In addition, as a result of its global placement, Prague sees the daylight hours last from 4am to 9pm during the summer, and from about 8am to 4pm in the winter. 

I took this picture on a rainy afternoon in Prague, while waiting for the tram....in the rain. It gets rather annoying expecting rain every day, but generally it cools off after the rain. If you can find a good place to hide, it's actually quite nice. I took this picture because I liked the motion of the tram, contrasted with the stillness of the umbrella. I thought it captured a rainy day nicely, even though you can't really see the rain. Many people that live here, still don't carry umbrellas and just brave the rain. 

angels in the architecture: historic cityscape

June 16, 2011

Young girl feeding geese near the dancing building, Prague

Like I've mentioned before, Prague's cityscape is filled with multiple types of architecture, one right next to the other. One of the most famous instances of this is the dancing building, designed by Croatian-Czech architect Vlado Milunić in co-operation with Canadian-American architect Frank Gehry on a vacant riverfront plot. The plot, left vacant after the Bombing of Prague in 1945, has been the home to the building since 1996. 


The design of the building was very controversial for its time, even though the Czech president who lived next to it, encouraged its construction. He hoped the design would allow the building to become a cultural center. I'm not sure what his definition of cultural center was, but multinational firms within and a French restaurant on top, probably wasn't what he had in mind. Nevertheless, it does serve as a cultural landmark and tribute to the bomb mistakenly dropped on Prague by American troops at the end of WWII. 


I took this picture because I really liked the simplicity of the girl feeding the birds, contrasted with the complexity of the architecture. Photographing architecture has been difficult for me, because I find it very boring for the most part, so I thought this was a nice way to fulfill the assignment. 

around here: public love.

June 15, 2011

Young Prague couple in love. 

Public display of affection is widespread across Europe, but here in Prague it seems to be even more so. Young couples in love kiss, caress and grope in the most public of places, like the tram. There is no shame or modesty in their youthful sexuality, and while uncomfortable to be around, it's probably quite liberating. More than once, I've been riding the tram while a guy his holding onto his girlfriend from under her skirt. Odd? For me, yes. But for them, its completely natural. I'm still unsure if they do this in front of their parents, I'd like to think they draw a line somewhere, but probably not. Lines are really gray and fuzzy in the Czech Republic...they aren't particularly drawn to conformity. 

Nevertheless, the love seems to flow freely around these parts. I took this picture of Joshua and his wife, Martina because it depicted both them, and the PDA here in Prague...and it was cute. 

morning glory: praha fashionistas

June 14, 2011

fashionista

Prague fashion, while I would say a majority of it is stuck in the late 80s, has some definite perks. Many people, mainly the younger crowd, are very attune to European fashion and all of its beauty and glamour. You can see very poorly, almost hysterically dressed people, riding the same tram as a beautiful, young fashionista. It's quite bizarre that such a wide range of fashion resides in such a homogenous culture. You would think Czechs would all be on the same fashion page, being in Europe and all.

This morning I got to experience some of Prague's most fashionable at an Elle magazine photo shoot. The topic being "fashionable couples in love", my documentary subject Joshua and his wife were chosen. Martina, his wife, is a well-known fashion blogger here in Prague. If you look at her, you can see why in both her beauty and elegant choice of clothing. Being chosen for the shoot, they got made up, dressed up and ultra glammified. The issue will run in August, and I'm sure the photos will be beautiful.

angels in the architecture: including card houses

June 13, 2011

flaming house of house cards outside the meet factory, prague

Just like card houses, Prague was built in layers -- chunks, if you will. Or maybe, more appropriately it was rebuilt in chunks. Winding through the streets of Prague, you can find almost any type of architecture, from almost any time period. You are also more than likely to find architecture of one time period, built in another -- or restored in another. Modern buildings are constructed right next to 17th century historical landmarks, and no one seems to mind. It's certainly not an "out with the old, in with the new" mindset, it's more of a "this looks nice, we'll put it right here" frame of mind. In addition, many old buildings have been abandoned, leaving a vast amount of eyesores in the czech streets. I'm sure that a majority of people are just glad to have a change of pace. 

I took this picture and placed it under this category for multiple reasons. One, there is fire. Lots of buildings here in Prague have been damaged by fire, gunfire, or they at least they look like it. Prague's been around for quite awhile so back in the days of cannons, quite a few edifices were crushed. Two, I wish to call Prague my home one day. This stack of postcards was a promotional piece from one of the artists at the meet factory. Many of her homes have been in Prague, so if you look closely, you can see some Prague landmarks, so I thought it was fitting.

morning glory: trdelniks trump cheerios

June 12, 2011

young boy baking trdelniks for my eating pleasure

Czechs are big on their sweets. There's ice cream on every corner, pastries in every window, and if you're lucky a trdelnik stand nearby. I'm not quite sure what a trdelnik, but all you really need to know about it is that it's the most delicious and succulent doughy pastry that will ever graze your taste buds. If you were a fan of Krispy Kreme, this is at least 100 times better, and probably not full of lard. Probably. 

Essentially, trdelniks are dough wrapped around a spit, and roasted over an open flame. They are smothered with a buttery substance, dipped in bread flavorings like cinnamon or walnuts, and then slowly cooked to crispy brilliance. It looks similar to a muff you might stick your hands in during the winter to stay warm, but its edible qualities make it far more valuable than any faux fur your grandmother had. It's similar to a pretzel, except rather than being tied up, it's simply flattened out and wrapped around the spit. Because it's cooked on an open flame, the outside becomes just the perfect amount of crunchy. 

When the sweet cinnamony aromas waft your way, it's really quite hard to turn down a trdelnik. And for only forty CZK, you can satisfy the animal-like craving in seconds. So for the most glorious of mornings, I highly recommend a trdelnik for breakfast. It's the best doughnut-y pretzel-y sweet goodness you can find.

I took this picture as a tribute to this delicacy, and because I liked the framing of the guy looking through the window. You can see the trdelnik over in the bottom right-hand corner. Let the salivating commence. 

weekend miser: a castle with a view.

June 11, 2011

View from the Cesky Krumlov castle

Down near the Czech-Austrian border, lies the almost completely preserved 17th century town of Cesky Krumlov. Because it hit a pretty big recession as a result of some world wars and evacuations of governing families, Cesky Krumlov missed the boat on reconstruction and renovation. Somewhere along the line it got an Italian renaissance makeover, and oddly enough has kept the facade since then. It's quite a lovely town with winding rivers, narrow streets, and aromatic bakeries. And if you've ever been to Florence, Italy it does indeed have a comparable feel. Cars aren't really very practical here, considering the city center is 5 blocks wide at most and the cobble-stoned streets are flooded with pedestrians.

From ornate wall to ornate wall, tourists bombard the streets of Cesky Krumlov to step back in time and experience what was once a very powerful center of Czech power. Atop a hill, overlooking the river, sits the Cesky Krumlov castle. It probably has a more sophisticated name in a history book somewhere, but for all intents and purposes, this will do. Transferred from "royal" family to royal family the castle has served every purpose from glorious regime to silly extraneous castle used for gifting from one obnoxiously wealthy person to another. It's hard to believe such a magnanimous edifice could have at one time been extraneous and empty. I guess in the periods of historical extravagance, castles were just charms on bracelets in an old jewelry boxes somewhere deep within your hope chest. 

Although at this point the castles are running together, this one had bears in the moat -- and for that, it sticks out. We also had a tour guide from Florida, another heavily weighing difference. Anyways, aside from that, the castle theater had essentially been untouched in the periods were the castle was just a toy, and therefore leaving it impeccably well-preserved. So much so, that the Cesky Krumlov castle theater is the oldest and most well-preserved castle theater still in existence today. Our tour guide informed us that most of the theaters burned down because baroque theater called for fireworks and fireworks explode, generally causing fire, in a time when firemen, codes, and extinguishers were non-existent. Not to mention, public safety was thrown by the wayside for the entertainment of the royal family. Nevertheless, it was pretty cool and is still fully operable, hosting performances a couple times a year.

The castle also had some pretty grand views of the tiny city that lay below it. I took this picture because I liked the view, reflection and silhouette. It was one of the only spots within the castle where we were actually allowed to take pictures and I took full advantage. None of my secret, sneaky pictures ever look like a person with perfect eyesight took them, so I have to scrap them. I was thankful I at least got this photo that I kind of like. 

small wonder: tiny girl; giant beer

June 10, 2011

Single file line in the Pilsner Urquell brewery

The Pilsner Urquell brewery located in Pilsen, Czech Republic is largely responsible for the Czech ranking as number one in per capita beer consumption. Packaging about 120,000 beers per hour, this brewery houses a significant amount of beer -- so much, in fact, that you couldn't drink through one of their holding tanks in a lifetime. Leave it to the Czechs to have that much beer on hand. 

Drinking on average 179 liters of beer per every man, woman and child, beer is a pretty significant part of Czech culture. Not to mention, the second-runner up in the consumption contest, Germany, falls behind by about 50 liters...and everyone knows Germans know how to drink. I certainly would not have given the Czechs that much credit for holding such an elusive title, unless I had heard the facts from a reliable source. For the time being, I'm considering our Czech professor fairly reliable -- and the brewery seemed to back up his statement. 

Down in the bowels of the brewery, the pilsner beer lies in wait. After we went through the whole hop to beer process, we bundled up and carefully tiptoed over the wet cobblestones of the fermentation basement. The basement was wildly aromatic of all the pleasant beer smells you can conjure up, and the occasional waft of mold and mildew. Down at the end of this row of beer barrels stood an elderly man serving up unfermented, unfiltered hearty and delicious Pilsner Urquell beers. We sat down in basement enjoying each savory sip of a beer you can only get in this particular basement, in this particular brewery, in this small town of Pilsen -- the only place brewing Pilsner Urquell beer. 

I took this photo because I really liked the lighting and the scale of beer barrel to person. I also thought the wet and damp feel came across nicely. 

noticed: reflections

June 10, 2011

Reflections of Hops Museum Visitors in diagram of Hops field.

Reflections in a mirror, reflections in a pond, reflections in a journal. Ever since you were little, you're taught the multiple meanings of reflections - even if its a reprimand and request to sit there and reflect on all the bad things you've just done. I've always thought reflections, in the mirror-images sense of the word, were a neat concept, and since I've always been a fan of optical illusions, this fit right in. 

Since we've started this photo class and are trying to "pee on our own tree" I've found that reflections are a simple and interesting way to accomplish this. Though relatively overdone in the standard photo I rearview mirror self portrait, occasionally there can be something slightly more interesting about a reflection of some hops-planting tools, than the hops-planting tools themselves - though, I'll admit, not much. The Zatec Hop Museum in Zatec, Czech Republic, while having potential, was probably as interesting as spoon is sharp. They really put forth 110% to up the interest of something that's actually quite cool, but personifying a hop bud as a childish cartoon character just didn't cut it for the 18 - 25 year old market. 

Beer being such an integral part of Czech culture and economy, it's bizarre to me that this museum wasn't more intriguing. It did have some cool hands-on activities that gave it some umph. I felt bad for the little town of Zatec who's entire livelihood depends on the hops, lucky for them the Pilsner Urquell brewery strictly uses their hops -- even though our brewery tour guide claimed Germany's hops were better. Regardless, a majority of Czech beer -- and other beer for that matter -- starts with Czech hops from Zatec. That's saying quite a lot for a little microscopic dot on the map with a relatively childish and pointless museum explaining it's main economic foundation. 

Anyways, back to the reflections, I took this picture because it was more interesting to photograph than anything else in the museum. I also liked that it kind of gave a sense of place, without actually giving a sense of place. And well, since we're always taking pictures -- it seemed appropriate. 

morning glory: art for breakfast

June 9, 2011

Lady peeking through an art piece in the atrium of the art museum in Prague

Waking up to art is normally something I'm a fan of, except when it comes in the form of a museum. We took a guided tour of the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art on Thursday morning. Learning about famous Czech artists such as Mucha and Kupka, we meandered from piece to piece on the fourth floor of the museum. 

Our tour began with an emphasis from the tour guide on the functionality of the museum. She encouraged us to look around and notice that absolutely no excess decoration had been placed in the museum. For whatever reason, I guess she didn't notice that every single gallery had accent walls. For all my life, I've been taught that galleries should only have white walls to accurately display the artist's intentions and allow the viewer to perceive the work in the purest form. I guess the Czechs disagree. I'm semi-appalled by this, but I'm not a curator, so what do I know. 

Anyways, milling through the gallery we covered a majority of your standard art museum work: some Van Gogh, Picasso, Seurat and the like. There was also a pretty significant section on industrial design, which I thought was pretty cool. Displaying models of famous buildings and archetypes of things like telephones, the industrial design portion was quite extensive. Finally, on the "international artist" section, which actually meant Modern art, in my book, there was a wide range of art evoking the usual confusion modern art is so famous for. Video projections, installations and the traditional painting/sculpture/etc. covered the gallery walls. 

Overall, there were a couple pieces I found intriguing. I really like the design of the large installation in the middle of the atrium, though I'm not 100% sure it was actually art and not the non-decoration-decoration the tour guide referenced. I took this photo because this exhibit was probably my favorite, and I liked the contrast of the woman's blue shirt in the mostly-white museum. 

small wonder: from death comes life.

So I know I've said it before, but I find it so interesting how life where so much death has taken place. Being in Lidice, a city completely obliterated by Nazis, it was unfathomable how peaceful and serene such a horrible place was. The scene was a beautiful landscape with rolling hills and covered by trees and flowers. The hills and the trees covered death and destruction unlike any other. It's odd that all that was left were a few cement blocks here and there. 

This photo was taken of the remains of the Horak Farm where all the men in the town were shot against mattresses on the wall. Every single man above the age of 15 was obliterated by three bullets, one to the head, two to the chest. After the massacre was over, they all got one more to the head for good measure. The men were shot first five at a time, but because it was going too slowly, the Nazis bumped it up to ten at a time. The men had to watch their friends and family get blown to bits then step over them to receive the same treatment, all piling up in dead-human hills at the bottom of the mattress wall. It's sick, and hard to believe such destruction took place. 

I took this photo because I really like the small sprig of plant life growing the rocks. I thought it was definitely a small wonder, even if its just a weed. It's good to know that the world can move on, and keep growing, even when humans just keep killing each other off. Ah well, such is life I suppose. 

the nocturnalist: ride don't drive.

Nightime Tram ride - Prague

Public transport is a way of life around here. I'm not sure if it's because Czechs are too lazy to drive or walk, or if they are always too drunk to drive. It's possible that they are really eco-friendly and want what's best for the world to prevent global warming, but I'm not banking on it. Little kids ride the tram to and from school. School busses are a foreign concept (literally) to the Czech kiddos. It's crazy to think of me riding the public bus as a seven year old, but they do it here without a second thought.

The crime rate is so low here, that it's highly unlikely your child would be abducted...so I guess it's understandable. The roadways are also fierce, so it's probably much safer to tram or bus than to try to tame the wild cars racing around. Jarka, our CET program coordinator, told me today she's too scared to drive, and coming from a native Czech that's saying a lot. It saves so much money to not have a car, insurance, or have to pay for parking.

Prague has one of the most sophisticated transit systems in Europe, and transports more than two-thirds of Prague's population. More than half a million people ride the metro daily, making it the seventh busiest metro in Europe. The transit system delicately intertwines busses, trams and metros for easy, quick travel all around the city. For only a couple hundred CZK you can get a monthly pass and pretty much move all about Prague, even to the outskirts.

It's quite brilliant, and I wish Austin could also have such amazing transportation. The DUI rate would probably almost vanish!

facts of life: it rains. a lot.

June 6, 2011

Summer shower in Prague

Rain rain go away. Come again another day. Little Johnny wants to play, but currently he's getting drenched. Although we haven't really experienced this, it apparently rains a lot here in Prague -- at least once a day. I grew up in Florida, so an afternoon shower seems pretty standard. Today was one of the first days it poured. We dashed into the tram and into the apartment just in the knick of time. The pitter patter of the rain drops, and cool breezes made for a stellar afternoon nap.

For the most part, the Prague-ians all have the proper rain gear. I'm not sure why this poor little boy was walking in the pouring rain with his backpack. It seems uncharacteristic, based on the lackadaisical nature of Czechs, that he would actually be in a hurry. His mom should know better, this poor kid's definitely going to catch a cold. I know, I've been there. Shockingly, rain boots don't seem as popular here as you would expect, and I'd have to say, unlike Seattle, the suicide rate is probably pretty low. Czechs have cheap beer, they don't really need suicide. It would just be a complete waste of time. Besides, who would their dogs ride the tram with then? It'd be way too sad, and the Czechs have enough sad history to be wallowing in even more sadness.

Anyways, I took this photo out my window right before I took a nap. I wanted to run down and bring this boy a poncho, but alas, I don't even have one, and I'm on the fourth floor so I wouldn't have made it. So instead, I took his picture, in hopes that he will reach dry land soon.

weekend miser: plethora of chachkies at the blesi trh

June 5, 2011

Some clowns chillin' in some chairs

Hunt, scavenge, dumpster-dive. If any of those words appeal to you, you're going to love the main blesi trh (flea market) in Prague. Providing visitors with a vast array of anything and everything from raunchy Czech porn to giant jars of nutella (and probably raunching Czech porn involving nutella), this market allowed for a stupendous morning of exploration. 

Located on the Kolbenova stop of the yellow metro line, Prague's main blesi trh is open from 6am - 130pm on Saturday and Sunday mornings. The vendors start packing up around 12:30pm but a lot usually hang around till 2. If you walk out of the metro station, you can't miss it across the street to your right. You have to pay a small 20 CZK entrance fee, but it's well worth it. Be forewarned, you need one 20 CZK, two 10 CZKs or a euro to pop into the turnstile when you enter. It's a pretty big rip off to put a euro in, so make sure you have coins. 

Blankets spread far and wide, dust clouds dancing down the aisles, the blesi trh offers something for everyone. If your in the mood, which you will be after the pleasant aromas waft your way, there's even some food stands to get schnitzel, smazni syr and various other fried deliciousness. For whatever reason, the vendors display quite a lot of underwear and military paraphernalia.  I know, two things that clearly belong together, and all this time, this perfect harmony of nonsensical objects has fallen by the wayside. It pretty much blew my mind. 

Although you will probably need to shower afterwards, I highly recommend venturing out on this dirty journey. Even if you're sure you could never buy something at a flea market, I promise you will. It's so tempting to buy lots of completely useless, yet highly necessary chachkies, so make sure you limit yourself to only the absolute must-haves. Personally, I was torn between a fur military hat and a compass - I went with the compass. At least when I got lost amongst the grit and grime of the blesi trh, I was able to head the right direction to get home. 

noticed: little boy beauty

June 4, 2011

Porcelain little boy in the Kings Parade, Prague

Waking up way too early for our own good, our class trekked up to the Prague castle to follow the annual Kings Parade. Commemorating a castle to castle journey made by the King from Prague to Karlstejn, the parade lasts two days and has all the accoutrement you would expect from any royal gathering. On horseback, or horse-drawn carriage, the mock-royal party makes their way from castle to castle, iphone stuck in their spandex and DSLRs around their necks. It's mildly oxymoronic, but you can't really expect a full-fledged reenactment this day and age, especially from the teenagers making this journey. You know, they need to check their Facebook and update their statuses to something like "only 20 more km then I can rip this wretched velvet cloak off and run naked through the fields wild and free as i should be. txt if you wanna join. there'll be beer." -- the usual teenage overly melodramatic Facebook post. 

Anyways, it was ungodly hot to be donning multiple layers of velvet, spandex and the occasional headdress of iron mesh. As much as Europeans already sweat because of lack of air conditioning, wearing these historical outfits, probably didn't help their cooling techniques, unless of course they have superhuman sub-dermal air conditioning systems and/or those costumes had fans like mascot costumes do. 

The parade started with trumpets blaring, boots stomping and large loads of horse droppings raining down on the cobblestone. Fragrant aromas wafting over the crowd, the procession and its spectators wound through the narrow streets of the city. Causing all tram, car and cyclist traffic to stop in its path, it moved more swiftly than I expected practically racing down the cobblestone. Running to keep up, we would snap a few shots, then sprint to the beginning again. It proved to be quite an unexpected workout. 

I was entranced by the immaculate skin of this little boy and his commitment to the parade. I can't really imagine myself being that dedicated at such a young age. I took this picture because he looked so regal and majestic and I thought it really captured the essence of the parade, despite the invading technology that may have downplayed its importance.  

the nocturnalist: artist in a tower

June 3, 2011

David Cerny hanging from an electrical tower outside the Meet Factory

Since I've been spending my free time at the Meet Factory working on my documentary, I get to see boatloads of interesting things. I'm not gunna lie, this particular picture is one of my favorites: artist climbing the electrical towers that run over the railroad tracks out front of the Meet Factory -- pretty sweet, if you ask me. He was trying to take pictures of the front of the building, and the crowds...i think. Or he just wanted to climb an electrical tower -- either way, i support the decision in full force.

The meet factory hosts a ton of events throughout the month ranging from dubstep electronic eurotrash concerts to gallery openings. It's a pretty happenin' place, and the beer's cheap, so it's bound to draw a pretty good crowd. It's semi off the map, so the clientele is an interesting bunch. You have to be bound and determined to find the meet factory, if you plan on going there.

I took this picture because I liked the silhouette and repetitive shapes in the towers -- and since I spend most of my time here anyways, I'm trying to vary my meetfactory photos. Hopefully this one will make it into my final documentary. This photo is kind of deceiving because he's not tied on, or standing on anything, despite the optical illusions the shadows are making.

angels in the architecture: and bullet holes

June 2, 2011

Bullet holes and reflections in Czech architecture

Prague is known for its vast array of architecture. It's one of the only cities in Europe that has modern buildings right next door to facades built in the 1300s. We got to see loads of this in our painfully long, yet relatively informative walking tour. This particular building was a spot taken over by Communism. The bullet holes still remain, leaving it pretty lifeless and dilapidated. It's interesting that so many buildings here have not been restored or even touched after the various wars. Many factories stand abandoned, and many areas in town look completely rundown. I'm not sure if it's just a Czech mindset of relative laziness, or a blatant statement of disregard for the institutions that used to run the country. Czechs are pretty sensitive about the whole communism thing, not to mention the whole eastern/western europe thing. It was news to me as well, mainly because of my ignorance, that the Czech Republic is a Western country. 

Anyways, I snapped this photo because I liked the reflections in the modern building, and the bullet holes. Something about glass that's been blown out and cement that's been stripped is really visually appealing to me. It's the "grunge" look of architecture, in my opinion. I'm not sure what operations, if any, currently happen at this particular building, but nonetheless, it remains upright. It stands tall as a visual reminder of all the turmoil that the Czechs went through over the last 100 years, it's not Czech fashion, but you'd think they would have destroyed all reminders by now. 

facts of life: zmrzlina

May 31, 2011

Amazing ice cream found at a stop off the 12 tram

Zmrzlina is a way of life around here. Just like dead people, there is ice cream on every corner. Cone, cup, shake, you name it, the Czechs love it. The zmrzlina, in my opinion, is the epitome of Czech culture: you stop to enjoy it, and its everywhere. It's actually more similar to gelato than American ice cream, and you really only get a little scoop of it, for the most part. It seems to be just the right amount to freshen up an afternoon, or relax on a bench waiting for the tram. 

We went on a hunt for some zmrzlina the other day and came across this beauty. I took the picture because it just looked so delicious and it was. The chocolate syrup is a lot more real chocolate and less artificial sugar, so it tastes a bit more bitter than we're used to. Since then, we've been back quite a few to times to order this delicious treat. It's totally worth the 20 minute tram ride it takes to get there. Since ice cream is probably my favorite food group, steadily tied with pasta, I think I could live a pretty sweet life here in Prague -- no pun intended. 

around here: ghosts of the Czech past

June 1, 2011

I didn't really know where this picture would fit, but then I decided that it's really a part of Czech culture. Unlike in the States, someone has died on pretty much every corner. Every building has a history and every square has a story. I might be wrong, but I would say that Czechs are mostly desensitized to this fact because they pass it every day. Whereas for us, it's like 'Oh shit, I'm eating ice cream in a town where 150,000 prisoners were held during the Holocaust and 35,000 of them died because of poor hygienic conditions...and I'm eating an ice cream cone' -- it's kind of an overwhelming experience. An experience, I think, that doesn't really equate to anything else I've ever felt before. 

It's also interesting that after awhile all the deaths seem to blend together and you're left with a sense of emptiness, and I guess desensitization. It's sad, but what else can you do. Being only one person, it's hard to grieve again for hundreds of thousands of lives lost at every turn -- and honestly, it can really wear you down. I'm too empathetic to focus on death so much, but I guess in a way it's more honoring the lives of those who've passed. 

We visited Terezin today, a holding camp/concentration camp/insta-depression zone, an hour or so outside of Prague. Being there, standing in the same spots where prisoners once stood, where dying children once painted, it's weird. It's hard for me to wrap my head around. I can't really swallow mass genocide, even though I know it happened/happens, and there's not really anything I can do about it. When I compare it to something like 9/11, which I know is completely incomparable, but nonetheless relatable. At first you have a massacre, but then you have heroism within minutes because once the passengers on the Pennsylvania plane knew about it, they took the enemy down. So why didn't the 78,000 prisoners within Terezin revolt? I mean, there were 78,000 of them in a city built for 5,000! They could have had a coup de'etat for pete's sake. I just don't understand, but then again I wasn't there, and really don't know enough about the situation to fully develop that opinion, so I'll stop with the bogus theories. I was just standing there listening to our tour guide, a survivor, and really pushing for an uprising of the Jews to save so many lives, even knowing full well that it didn't happen.

Anyways, I took this picture because I thought it got across the creepiness that was flowing through my veins. It smelled like death, not really like rotting corpse or anything, just it was in the air, and you could feel it. Everywhere we went. I also thought this photo kind of honored what went on there. I liked the menorah, it gave it more meaning. It was also a pretty scary looking menorah, so it fit. 

around here: trainspotting

May 30, 2011

Traveller waiting for the train

From what I've noticed, Czechs do a lot of waiting. They wait for the tram, train, lunch, coffee, beer, and their dogs to publicly poop. They take their time waiting and then, wait some more. There's no sense of urgency or requirement here, and that's instilled in everything Czechs do. It's a type of appreciation for life that I really respect, and honestly, want for myself.

I think this contrasts a lot with American culture where there's always hustle and bustle and you only have 10 minutes to be wherever you're going that's 20 minutes away. I captured this photo because it actually reminded me of Austin (with the dreads), even though that seems to also be very popular in Prague. Czechs probably also enjoy the act of waiting for the hair to dread, it seems appropriate. I highly doubt they take the fast way and use a soap bar to knot up their hair -- it seems very uncharacteristic. 

I did some research on how to dread my hair not too long back, and actually you don't have to cut all your hair off when you're done...crazy, I know, but that's a myth! So if you're in the market, a soap bar will speed up the process, and wash out -- best of both worlds. 

Sidenote (but it fits perfectly): A bar owner that I met told me this story of one of his employees. The employee called him, he missed the call, and called the guy back. No answer. Called again. No answer. Five hours later, the owner goes to the bar to see the man waiting for him. The man was a delivery truck driver, and his truck broke down. He had called the owner once, and that was all the effort he was expelling to resolve the situation, so he waited. He waited for FIVE HOURS. The man was on salary, so once his work was done, he could have gone home, but instead he sat there and waited for the owner rather than calling him back. I thought that fit this blog on waiting to a tee, so I included it!

wish you were here: hanging with the cool kids

May 29, 2011

Meet Factory artist, Joshua Ammon, outside the factory

Near the end of the Tram 12 route, in practically the middle of nowhere Prague, there lives an old meat factory converted into an international centre of contemporary art, the meet factory. Housing visual artists, film, music and theatre, the space fosters creativity and artistic growth. The smell of oil paint and grime overwhelms your senses as you walk through the halls. 

The meet factory, wedged between eight railroad tracks and the interstate, has a formal entrance, and the one everyone uses. Get off the 12 tram, gracefully climb through the electrical tower and hop over the railroad tracks and you're there. It's unclear how illegal that is, but just like smoking pot in Prague, no one really seems to mind.

Founded by legendary, yet controversial artist David Cerny, the meet factory welcomes artists from around the world to come and call a studio space their own. Cerny's intentions were to bring progressive international art into Czech culture, which I think he's beginning to accomplish quite nicely. By allowing some of the most innovative thinkers and doers to live and work in the space, Cerny's laying a solid foundation for a growing Czech art scene. 

Generally speaking, and in my opinion, traditional artists don't call the meet factory home. It's only the most provocative and controversial, or just plain weird and interesting, that make the cut. The artists have to submit proposals for projects and are granted space accordingly. Some artists are even sought out and personally invited to spend time there.

This photo is of Joshua, my semi-subject for the photo documentary I've been working on. Joshua has lived in Prague for a couple years now, but only moved into the factory less than a year ago. He has a studio so he can work on large format paintings. 

I thought this photo depicted him perfectly.

weekend miser: king of the castle

May 28, 2011

View of Karstejn castle from the village street

Forty short minutes away from Prague lies Karlstejn - home to King Charles' castle. There's not much else in Karlstejn, but the views alone are worth the 60 CZK it cost to get there.  It's a 2-mile walk uphill to the castle with gift shops and zmrzina all along the way. I'm not sure what exactly you are supposed to do if you live in Karlstejn and need to buy something other than a Czech sweatshirt, but I guess the Karlstejnians have figured it out. The town is very quaint and if you could imagine what a traditional Czech town might look like, this hits the nail on the head. Windy roads, small cars, gardens, fences, clothes lines and gnomes in windows are all included in the uphill climb. If you get lucky, like we did, you even get to hear the small Czech children donning traditional garb singing in the streets. I'm not sure what they were singing about, but holding hands, pigtails and spinning around in a circle were all part of the gig -- also worth the 3 bucks, if you ask me. 

When you finally reach the top of the hill, you feel like you've run a marathon. Luckily, there's a spot to stop and get beer about half way up the most brutal part of the climb. After you reach the top, you can pay various amounts of money to see various parts of the castle. They have some English tours and student discounts make it pretty affordable. Be wary of the English tours because the tour guides have semi-programmed the tour into their vocabulary, so their English isn't that good if you actually have a question. If you're not really into history, going into the castle won't do much for you. A majority of the inside was redone during Restoration in the 19th century. All the 'art' on the walls is pieces of the actual 14th century castle, so that's pretty neat. You also get to see replicas of some crowns - they pretty much look like replicas, though slightly more glamorous than a crown you might have worn in a 2nd grade school play. 

For me, the main draw was the awe-inspiring view you get when the tour is over. The basic tour spits you out in the castle's courtyard. The courtyard is worth exploring. If you go up and stand on something you can see the whole land, and you pretty much feel like King Charles, minus the crown. You guessed it, also worth the CZK you pay. 

When exiting the castle, there's a little nature trail that takes you around the other side of the mountain. It's scenic, you get to walk next to a stream, and I'm pretty sure it's shorter. If motivated, which you will be, have a Hansel and Gretel moment and skip down the trail and frolic in the stream. You wind back through town and then back to the train station. It's a pretty hefty walk there and back so make sure you've worn comfortable shoes. 

I snapped this particular photo mainly because I love mannequins. I have a technicolored mannequin named Janice at home -- and she's awesome. She would be proud I took this photo. It seemed appropriate because the juxtaposition was so rare - a mannequin and a 14th century castle. It's not everyday you see such a sight. Not to mention that being in a city that's so painfully touristy, every other second someone is snapping a picture of someone else in front of an iconic landmark. I felt the mannequins should also have photos to show mom and dad too- maybe even send a postcard. After having been here a week, I can safely say I'm surprised by nothing the Czechs do, so this should be expected. 

small wonder: locks of love

May 27, 2011

Padlocks locked to the bridge railing, Mala Strana District, Prague

Padlocks of Love have been taking the world by storm. Star-crossed lovers, or just passionate sweethearts, have been locking their love up and throwing away the key on bridges, railings and any commonplace available. The padlocks symbolize their everlasting love, or whatever passionate love they feel at the time. 

In Prague, these locks can be found affixed to a pedestrian bridge in the Mala Strana district. Wikipedia says it was started by the now infamous Glen Emery of Jo's bar fame, but we all know how reliable Wikipedia can be. The locks of love on the bridge are on public display so that any passing man, woman and child knows how in love you are. Czechs are big on public displays of affection, so this seems rather appropriate. You never know when you're going to bump into a couple making out on the tram, and when you do, they probably have a lock on the bridge. 

Many of the locks, such as the one above, are engraved with the names of the sweethearts who placed the lock. The bridge, though small, is adorned with hundreds, maybe thousands, of padlocks. All colors, shapes and sizes represent the love that two people felt at one time when they locked their love to the bridge. Undoubtedly, it is good karma for the future of the relationship, probably similar to feeding the wedding cake versus smashing it in your loved one's face -- my parents always told me those generally end in divorce. After all, if on one of the most important days of your wife's life you ruin her makeup with a frosting rose to the eye, she's probably going to hold that against you...forever. Not to discount that women also smash, it was just easier to blame the guy. 

Regardless of American customs, Nika and Michael are probably still madly in love. Maybe if they ever break up, Nika will come to the bridge in a fit of rage and hack the lock off with a chainsaw, cast it into the water below, and watch it sink to depths, never to be seen again. (I let the girl win that one too, sorry I'm biased...it will probably be Michael's fault anyway)

This small wonder captured my eye because honestly, I'm a hopeless romantic. I wish the best for Nika and Michael and I hope that one day I, too, will have a love passionate enough to lock it to a bridge in Prague and throw away the key. Word on the street - aka wikipedia - is that locks are showing up in the U.S. too, all over the Brooklyn Bridge. I liked that Nika and Michael took the time to have the lock engraved, such a simple gesture, yet so meaningful. It's the little things that get me every time. 

wish you were here: dancing with gypsies

May 26, 2011

Romani Gypsy Parade in Old Town Square, Prague

Trekking from Wincelas Square to Old Town Square with the gypsies today proved to be a remarkable feat.  Previously, my view of gypsies stemmed from my grandmother’s warning that their fake babydolls would guilt me into giving them money and then they’d pick my pockets in return for my kindness.  Needless to say, it was kind of skewed.

Unlike the fake-babydoll-carrying-swaddling-clothes gypsies of Italy, the Romani gypsy parade was a fantastical celebration of gypsy culture in Prague. Decked to the nines in makeup, bells, bangles and flowy clothing of all sorts, the gypsies twirled and whirled their way through town. Supported by family, friends, photographers and fanny-packed bystanders, gypsies young and old strutted their stuff down the cobblestone streets. Representing all ethnicities, from Indian to Hispanic, the gypsies marched in support of their homelands.

Never before have I feared being trampled, but kneeling down trying to capture a photo of gypsy feet can really change a person's mind on those types of things. Elbowing and wedging my way to the front of the crowds, I felt similarly to that 'N Sync concert I went to in middle school. It's interesting how some points in your life connect to vastly different experiences you've had. 

Because the parade was moving so swiftly, it was almost as if the crowd was doing a tango with the each gypsy tribe, circling and dispersing, constantly in flux. Winding around corners, down the narrow streets, the parade hustled and bustled with colorful life.  For some of the younger girls, it seemed as though this were their big ballet recital, posing and twirling all lipsticked and smiley. 

I was thoroughly impressed by the dedication of each tribe to their performance. I took this picture because I wanted to capture both the landmark of Prague and the contrast of the colorful gypsy. In addition, I wanted to illustrate the movement and chaos that ensued during the parade. I think this photo depicts the parade to a tee. 

facts of life: smoking is everywhere

Girl smoking in Cross Club, Prague

From bars to trams, cars to prams, smoking is everywhere. This habit is very popular in European countries, and perceived much differently to that of smoking in the U.S. We grow up being taught that smoking is bad, causes lung cancer, kills, etc. Europeans just grow up smoking. It's almost as if they are still being affected by the "Joe Cool" Camel advertising from the late 80's. I suppose people say that they move slower here, so that might be an accurate statement. 

In the book The Tipping Point, Malcom Gladwell discusses the allure of smoking and how it draws people in with the 'cool factor'. You do not pick up smoking because you really, truly want to smoke. You pick up smoking because the hot au pair your parents hired one summer used to delicately draw in nicotine fumes when she laid out out by the pool. Her fingers would bring the cig to her mouth, and she would gracefully inhale then exhale the smoke; never, not once, implying smoking was in any way uncool. 

I don't necessarily think Europeans are affected by the 'cool' factor of smoking, its a part of their culture. There is no "Indoor Air Act" or non-smoking section, and surprisingly, no one seems to care. The advertising regulations for countries other than the U.S. allow them to put things such as "SMOKING KILLS" or a cancerous lung all over the box of cigarettes, and that is as good as a "Truth" campaign to them. 

No worries, I'm not planning on taking up smoking anytime soon, but I'll admit that a lot of Czechs look damn cool running through the streets with their cigarettes in hand. Initially, what drew me to capture this photo was her hand. Hands, my favorite thing to photograph, tell so much about a person: where they've been, how they've aged, how hard they work. If you get close enough, you even know if they bite their nails or better yet their skin. In my opinion, hands go unnoticed in today's society and should really get a lot more credit, considering without them your abilities are quite limited. Hands are responsible for the great writing, painting and sculpting we know and love. They are the consoling pat your father places on your back and the tender touch from your grandmother that grazes your face in affection. Alas, I digress, this blog post is about smoking in Czech culture not the beauty of hands.

Bottom line, I'm pretty sure views on smoking, and often habits of smoking, stem from your upbringings. Czech upbringings promote it and therefore its everywhere from bars to trams, cars to prams -- though I'm not implying babies smoke around here. 

noticed: headstone saying hello

Headstone peeking through the bushes, Olsany Cemetery, Prague

As I mentioned below, much of the cemetery is overgrown. Regardless of the direction you were looking, you could see nothing but headstones and mausoleums. Although it may be weird, I enjoyed being in the presence of such death because in a sense, I was also in the presence of such life. I felt blessed by the lives that lay beneath me and knew they were all wishing me well as I tip-toed on their headstones in polite curiosity.

I took this photo above as I was walking to meet back with the group. I saw Anna Rodina Beranova peeking through the bushes and knew that she probably wanted to wish me well on my travels. It is clear by her fresh flowers, that people she knew and loved still know and love her. I wanted to let her stay forever in my digital image library as another way for her life to live on.

In looking at this photo, the leaves almost spread in the shape of a heart, another visual aspect that drew me to take it. I think this photo accurately depicts the life this cemetery holds.

Hopefully, I'll be able to go back to Olsany before I leave Prague. I really enjoyed the experience and would like to get a chance to walk all over the ground.

wish you were here: exploring Olsany cemetery

May 25, 2011

Elderly man walking through main road of the historic Olsany cemetery

Visiting the Olsany cemetery was unlike anything I'd ever experienced before -- hundreds of thousands of graves spread out for acres and acres of land. Spending an hour and a half there allowed me to photograph one row on one block of the cemetery. The graves ranged from old to new, preserved to dilapidated, and in some cases even empty. I described this experience to someone as being comparable to "the secret garden", the movie I watched as a child until my VCR destroyed it. The plant life and insects have overtaken the cemetery and made it their home. Black cats, as creepy as though that is, roam freely throughout the acres of Prague's past. I find it ironic that life has overtaken the death that lies below each headstone. In many cases, new life had sprung from the ground directly above the old life. 

It's interesting that nature handles death in an altruistic way, while people often look only at the negative. In addition, as each person grasps death differently, so each death grasps life differently, and each grave reflected that. Each headstone personified the body that lay beneath it, and in some cases how majestic that life was. 

I've never enjoyed being in a cemetery, for the most part because the only ones I've ever been in were for funerals of people I knew and loved. My perspective changed so much when I could appreciate centuries of life and death in one place. I watched as a pregnant woman and a mother pushing a stroller walked peacefully through the grounds, as though it were an everyday stroll in the park. I had never considered spending time gathering peace in such a place, but I understand. The quiet, the eternal resting, the perpetual stillness are all soothing in a way that nowhere else can capture. I saw this cemetery as a place of rejuvenation and reflection, rather than despair.

As I was getting ready to leave Olsany, I took the above photo because I thought it gave a good sense of the majestic qualities the cemetery held. In addition, it contrasted life, though a feeble one, with death. It made me wonder why this man had come here: did he come to visit his wife? his mother? his children? Or just to be at peace? 

After the fact, I realized that I had taken another photo of this man waiting patiently for the metro with our class. In looking at my photos, I know that I was attracted to him because I wanted to know his story. I'm a very imaginative person and often times spend hours watching people and putting together their stories in my head. Whether real or not, it gives such life and personality to people I haven't even met. 

the nocturnalist: night-time walk from the castle

May 24, 2011

Class walking downhill from the Castle on a warm summer evening in Prague

Generally, this is the view I have of my class: walking ahead of me while I'm making the world my jungle gym, climbing all over the place to capture an interesting photo. Captivated by the lighting, I took this to illustrate what a warm and welcoming glow the city has at night. In addition, I wanted to depict the lengthiness of the buildings soaring above, so high that you are almost closed in. In many cases, the city can swallow you whole. 

The class ate dinner at a brewery on top of "the hill" post-orientation on Monday. After dinner, we walked down the hill, our eyes bedazzled with new glimpses of the Prague cityscape at every corner. It was a pretty long trek, but on this beautiful evening, I deemed it perfectly acceptable. Traipsing down cobblestone roads at steep inclines proved to be more difficult than I thought. Similar to a Seussical wonderland, the cobblestones wound around every bend until they reached the illustrious castle. With each step, I felt the presence of the many people that had walked those streets before me. I honed in on the great and tried tirelessly to dull down the fanny-packed. 

Every square inch of Prague, or centimeter as seems appropriate, is jam-packed with unimaginable history. From kings and queens to communism and Nazis, the city streets of Prague hold more history in their pinkies than the U.S. holds in the whole country. The city pulses with culture of past and present, and yearns to continue to be cultivated. Although a very old city, Prague feels much younger than other European cities, and much younger than I expected. It is fairly fast-paced and a hub of cultural influence.

Even in just a few days, Prague has shifted my paradigm of expectancy for "eastern" Europe. I am thoroughly impressed with the city, and can't wait to see what each and every aged cobblestone has in store for me.